Last week was Chuseok, a family holiday very similar to Thanksgiving in America, and I had four glorious days off to explore Korea. I heard about the small tropical island off the south coast, and was eager to explore it. Looking at my photo's from the trip, I realised that I had to write about my wonderful week at Jeju Island.
I set off on the Monday afternoon with two friends of mine from Namwon, Matt and Cristen. They were awesome travel partners, and as you will soon see, Team Katsu had a great time together...
Day 1: Norebang and Jimjilbang
Had a rather swervy bus ride from Namwon to Gwangju. I must quickly say that the traveling part of the trip went relatively smoothly for us, considering that people book trips to Jeju months in advance, and we only planned the trip a week before! Despite the fact that the whole of Korea seemed to be trying to make it to Jeju, we never had a problem with buses being overbooked or full. And we found places to sleep every night. I'll put it down to Matt's great planning and couch surfing connections, and our good karma and charisma.
The trip got off to a great start. Once we arrived in Gwangju, we grabbed a beer at the local 'Family Mart', (the equivalent of a garage shop at home, only they sell booze at all hours, fabulous!) and took a stroll around, taking in the bright neon lights of the pub district. Matt and Cristen had a go at this boxing machine on the corner of the street, which soon drew the attention of the locals. Norebang was on the cards next. Norebangs are great Karaoke lounges, and are an integral part of Korean night life. We hired one for two hours, brought our beers in and sang some tunes, the highlight being 'Cocomo' by The Beach Boys..which we changed to "we want to go to Jejudo..". I also sang my very best rendition of 'Ode to My ' by the Cranberries, which I forgot is a very hard to sing!.

Matt has lived in Japan, and is well traveled, and suggested that we stay over at a Jimjilbang for the evening. A Jimjilbang is like a public bath house, or roman baths, with Saunas and big hot and cold pools for dipping in, and you can sleep there for a night very cheaply. This was my very first trip to Jimjilbang, and I was nervous because I knew there was going to be an element of public nudity involved. At the reception desk I was handed some towels, a pair of shorts and a t-shirt, and directed to the female section of the spa, at which point I was separated from Matt and Cristen. Nervously I offloaded my shoes and found my locker. My eyes couldn't help falling on naked bottoms and bosoms of the ladies in the change rooms. It was my turn to get naked and I just couldn't do it - I took of my clothes under my sarong and kept it closely wrapped around me. Once I made it out of the locker room, I discovered that the spa, and as quickly as possible, slithered out of my sarong and into a hot pool. It felt good, and I started to relax. There were a few pools of different temperatures, saunas, and a flat floor to lie on and bathe in this red light, which eases your muscles. I eventually gave up on the Sarong all together, and began to enjoy the nude experience, albeit still trying to hide my important bits with a towel the size of a dishcloth.
After I'd been sufficiently soaked and sweated, I showered and changed into my spa clothes- a bright orange ensemble that was just about as glamorous as a prison outfit. I headed to the upper floor to join the guys. It seems that people come with their whole families to these bath houses, and it is a very communal experience. Everyone sleeps together upstairs, splayed out on the floor. It was very strange feeling trying to get comfortable on the stone hard floor with nothing but a headrest for comfort. Oddly enough, I slept quite well and my back felt fantastic the next day. I must also mention the awesome massage chairs that they have here - which you can use for one buck and are actually dam good at rubbing and manipulating your body. The massage was so good, I'm thinking about investing in one of those chairs...
Day 2: The long hot walk
We arrived in Mokpo after a 90 minute bus ride, and were excited to begin the next leg of the adventure. Only, I was starting to realize the seriousness of my issue with packing way too much baggage. "Why do I always do this to myself?", I was thinking for the hundredth time. The guys were smart and packed super light, but because I had a big bag, I automatically filled it up more than was necessary. You know, a girl needs options in the morning.. but after our walk, I was willing to throw it all away!
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| Try to block out the garbage... |
We had a good four hours to kill before we could catch our ferry, and so we decided to take an 'easy stroll' to the ferry terminal. Only no one had any idea how far away it would turn out to be, nor how stinking hot it was that day! By the time we reached Mokpo - we were drenched, sweaty and grumpy! And nauseated with the smell of drying octopus and fish that lined the main road on the way to the harbor. On our walking tour of Mokpo, a rather dingy and industrial seaside city, we did have a few good moments. We had a little spin on some outdoor gym equipment (another unique phenomenon in Korea). We found a shipping museum, where we saw an old wreck and a lot of ceramics. We also had a good game of eye spy, and h is for 'hedge' people okay! Needless to say, when we finally got to plonk ourselves on the cool air conditioned Ferry, I was extremely grateful.

The ferry ride was a real highlight for me. It was a great sunshiny day and with a bit of wind, it made for very pleasant conditions riding on top of the ferry. While Cristen caught up on some beauty sleep, Matt and I grabbed some beers and spent a good portion of the ride enjoying the scenery, and meeting and chatting to foreigners. I met a few South Africans on the ferry, and we got very nostalgic about home and how good Koeksisters are. It was a very pleasant afternoon indeed.


Once we got a taxi into town from the ferry terminal, we met up with Matt's couch surfing contact, a bright, bubbly teenager with the best English I have ever heard for a girl her age. Her pronunciation was very good, and she says she taught herself English by watching movies, and sometimes watching the same movie over 40 times! She can also speak Japanese, so she is definitely talented at picking up languages. Her dream is to be a "world traveler", what a great dream! She also told us to "get a dream" - which made me laugh, wouldn't that make a good bumper sticker? I hope I meet her again one day so I can hear all her stories.
Day 3: Lava Cave, Maze, Beach

After finding a good place to stay the night, thanks to our young travel guide, we set out to explore a system of lava tubes, or 'volcanic cones'. Jeju Island is a volcanic island, with a volcano right in the center of the Island, called Mt Hallasan. The island was created from volcanic eruptions approximately 1.2 million years ago. The whole island has been labeled a 'volcanic museum' because of it's unique volcanic topography and rare ecosystems, and has been listed as one of UNESCO's World Natural Heritage sites. The place has an impressive resume!

The volcanic tubes were just like caves, dark and deep under ground. I felt somewhat awed knowing that rivers of raw molten rock once flowed through the passages we were walking in. There were interesting shapes left on the walls, lava flow lines, shelves and icicles. At the end of the cave a fantastic lava column, left where the lava emptied out from another tube, flowed through the ceiling. While the lava caves were impressive, I found I had more fun creating weird photo's with my camera ...check these pictures out!
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| Can you spot Cristen? |
A crazy way-gook (Korean word for foreigner) spent seven years growing and cultivating a maze, as a token of appreciation and gratitude to Korea. I think it was a noble gesture, and I would also like to leave something behind to thank this country when I leave. We had a good hour of weaving through the maze, and I'm proud to say I made it to the end first. I've always thought I have a great sense of direction...
I was dying to go to the beach and have a swim, and on the way home we did just that. The water was warm and beautifully turquoise, and that delicious experience that I will have to live on in my memory because I was having too much fun to take any photos.
Day 4: Ole Trails, Cliff Jumping, Waterfalls and more..
This was a full and interesting day! A network of paths snake along the entire coastline of Jeju island, making it possible to walk or cycle around the entire place. Given that the island is only 73 km from east to west, and 31 km North to South, this is entirely doable in a week, and in fact I met a whole tour group who were doing just that. But for the lazy ones like me (or perhaps just because I know the meaning of a 'holiday'), we took a day to leisurely stroll one of the Olle trails.

I was pleasantly bowled over by the magnificent views of cliffs diving into the sea. It made me think of Cape Point, at home. We also saw a beautiful waterfall, which unfortunately was crammed with tourists and afforded no opportunity for skinny dipping. Unless you're very brave that is. There were lots of people on the trail, and we had great fun saying hello to everybody who crossed our path. The guys were the particular attraction, they walked around without their shirts on which is basically unheard of in Korea. The men looked in admiration and awe. The woman's reactions ranged from terrified, to titillated. I have realised that there is much fun to be had acting strangely in Korea!
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| The guys did some cliff jumping. |
So we walked for a few hours to find a waterfall, which we later found out was dry at this time of year, and decided to head to a 'water amusement park' recommended to us by our taxi driver. The place was situated underneath a soccer stadium, built for the World Cup when Korea hosted it a few years ago. Now that is an innovative idea for what to do with Cape Town stadium if all else fails... The water world had a Jimjilbang area, and then opened out into a large water park with pools, a super tube, a wave pool and a 'river' to cruise down. Pretty much like Valley of Waves in Sun City - just smaller! The guys and I had a fantastic time, as I'm sure anybody would! I love doing things that make me feel like a kid!

After the water park, we explored the soccer field, and I did some mock star jumps and cheer-leading moves, which made a hysterical video you should watch sometime. On our way out, I realised that I had lost the walking stick I had bought that morning. Soon after discussing my loss, we crossed a large patch of bamboo, and the guys found a great long piece and decided to make us walking sticks. Amidst a cloud of mozzies (now biting every available piece of our flesh), the boys sawed the bamboo into three equal pieces with a pocket knife. After the sticks were completed, we felt like the three musketeers and decided to call ourselves 'Team Katsu' (Japanese for Team 'win'). This is what happens when you go on holiday with two guys..
Day 5: Mount Hallasan
Sticks in tow, we set off to climb Mount Hallasan, the large volcano at the center of the island. It was a fairly tough climb, 1950 m above sea level and very steep. It felt like there were a million stairs! The views and mountain scenery were beautiful, and we met some lovely people on the trail. Again, we greeted all the Koreans we possibly could... It was a great climb, but nothing could have prepared me for the extraordinary experience waiting for me. I had almost forgotten I was climbing a volcano, until I saw the deep hollow crater at the top...wow!
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| Team Katsu! Before the sweat.. |
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| The crater at the top |
Day 6: The last and best day of them all...
Matt is a Scuba Diver, and I wanted to try, but as I don't have a license, so Cristen and I decided to snorkel and while Matt went for a dive. We went out with a group of teachers who are lucky enough to actually live and work on Jeju Island. They were friendly, and we had great fun chatting to them as we waited for our dive. When the time finally arrived, we were transported to a boat, and then rode out to a beautiful island just off the coast.
I found the whole day relaxing and blissful. We got changed into our gear, jumped into the water just off the island. The water was a bit rough that day, but having had experienced a rough swim in Mozambique I didn't feel scared, and Orange had provided a good wetsuit and gloves to prevent cuts from coral and shells. I bobbed above a shoal of fish and enjoyed the feeling of being tossed slowly back in forth in the current. I saw some exciting fish, but it was the whole experience that made the day memorable. When the water got too cold, we climbed out and perched on the rocks for some afternoon lunch and a drawing session. The rocks is all volcanic, and has very interesting circular shapes. We stayed there for quite sometime, until the sun disappeared behind the ocean. What a magical day.

After we got back, it was already late, and one of the ladies we met on the trip offered to have us over for the night (there is our good Karma working for us again!). Kelly is a bubbly, happy, and interesting person, and it was great to meet her. She was very generous with her time, and took us out to the a fantastic Indian restaurant. I could have said there all night - the food was heavenly, especially given that I had only eaten Korean food and burgers for weeks! We headed home to Kelly's place for a shower, and then to a packed little club in Jeju - the first place I had been able to dance in Korea. It was the perfect ending to a fantastic holiday.